Recently I obtained a vintage brooch from the 1960’s by designer Robert Mandle and in doing so, I conducted some research about Robert Mandle Jewelry and found out some interesting things about him and his father, Urie Madle.
But first, I’d like to show you this gorgeous signed vintage brooch featuring marquise cut Swarovski crystals in rich blue and green, with clear Swarovski crystal rhinestones on each of the petals. The center is a cluster of simulated pearls, all of which are in pristine condition. Overall, the brooch has been impeccably well-maintained over time and even the gold plating is still rich and lustrous.
It seems that the Mandle family originally came from Pfilligin, Germany in the 1840’s, where some had settled on the west coast while the others made their home in New York.
Urie Mandle’s father had passed when Urie was at the young age of thirteen, who then quickly became the “man of the family” and got his first job at a furrier company making $3 per week. He was quickly fired two days later after the white broadtail jacket he was to have cleaned was returned dyed black and the brown fox scarf he was to have dyed black came back cleaned! Whoops! Sadly, when Urie was to go pick up his pay for the two days of work, he argued that he had been hired by the week and therefore should be paid the whole $3, after which the boss escorted him downstairs and booted him out the door without a cent! Poor Urie.
However, he went to work next for E. Cohn & Company which was located on Broom Street in New York City. His job was as a stock room clerk, for which he earned $3.00 and his boss’ hand-me-down clothes! Apparently Emmanuel and Rose Cohn lived on the same floor of a brownstone as the Mandle family. Back in those days, jewelry salesmen traveled extensively and Mr. Cohn’s territory was the Western United States.
When Mr. Cohn passed away, Urie took over his territory and discovered he had a gift for sales. This allowed the territory to expand to Arizona and the Goldwater Department Stores, among others. The company had later became Cohn and Rosenberger and then eventually became Coro.
After the passing of Mr. Rosenberger, his son Gerald took over the business and it left Urie with little opportunity, so he joined Sidney Lisner and Saul Ganz as a full partner. This was in the 1930’s. Urie’s job was to build their jewelry line and he worked with manufacturers in Providence, Rhode Island.
In 1938 Urie left Lisner joined with Nat Levy and formed the Urie Mandle Corporation at 411 Fifth Avenue, New York – a business devoted to costume jewelry. They became one of the fastest growing costume jewelry businesses within 4 years and the most recognized name after Coro.
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Vintage Mandle Poodle Brooch
via Hollee on ArtFire |
Robert Mandle, who was passionate about theater and had a successful summer as a stage manager collecting $150 per week, joined the company in 1938, to work for his father at a stockroom clerk for a mere $12 per week! However, the company was dissolved when materials became scarce at the start of World War II.
In 1942, Robert joined the Armed Forces and spent 5 years with General Patton in North Africa, Sicily and Normandy. Meanwhile, Urie experimented with lower-priced components for jewelry, using kidney beans and macaroni. The concept was great, but sadly the beans sprouted and the rats ate the macaroni.
Following the war, Robert joined Urie F. Mandel Company. Their logo was URO Creations, selling better sterling jewelry. During a trip to Gablonz, in Austria, in 1946 Urie visited the basement homes of a group of Jewish factory owners. Their factories had made stone-set chains, until the Russians took over the factory. He was deluged with bags of their now no longer needed loose stones to take back to America.
Meanwhile, Robert went to meet with Alfeo Verrechia, twin to Gene Verri (Verrechia), who had opened a factory at 51 Empire Street in Providence, in a single room. The business grew, and as it did, Robert told us, Alfeo kept adding another room, and yet another to the original small space.
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Mid Century Atomic Amber and Goldtone Starburst Brooch by Robert Mandle
via Crescent Thrift Shop on Etsy |
Jump forward to 1956, when the R. Mandle company was founded, with his first line of six trays of mother of pearl jewelry, with Tesoro doing his brass work and Gem-Craft, also of Providence, doing the cast pieces. Robert reached the teenagers by taking half page ads in Seventeen. One ad, for the Secret Heart ring, elicited the most responses ever at Seventeen! In 1966, Robert won the prestigious Swarovski Design Award,
As R. Mandle he did much of his business overseas. The US Chamber of Commerce, wishing to increase exports to Europe, arranged a group of business including, Dorset-Rex, the “Scarab King,” and R. Mandle to exhibit at the same time as the Frankfurt Fair. This was a time to make contacts and this Bob did, with firms such as Ciro of England. During this time R. Mandle was the only American company to be listed among the 1,400 at the biennial Bijoricha Fair. Up to 1982, R. Mandle was the only USA manufacturer. Sixty-five percent of his business was being done overseas.
Associated Dry Goods (Lord and Taylor), Peck and Peck chain and May’s were his American customers. Rings were great sellers for Mandle. For two reasons: the wholesale manufacturing of Urie Mandle, and the overseas business of Robert Mandle, collectors will find severely limited quantities of their jewelry. When or if you do find pieces from either company, they will be rare treasures. When Robert Mandle retired in the 1990s Gem-Craft acquired his master molds and the use of his designs.
Resource: THE MAGIC OF MANDLE, Authored by Lucille Tempesta and Marcia Brown, Guyot Brothers Company
Swanheart Jewelry 